Wild North: Alaska & Yukon CruiseTour with Holland America

While most of our travels revolve around life on the road in our motorhome, sometimes the best adventures happen when we step away from the RV for a bit. Lisa and I set off on a truly epic adventure — an 18-day Alaska & Yukon CruiseTour with Holland America Line. This trip had it all: the raw beauty of Alaska, the historic character of the Yukon, and the comfort and ease of expertly planned travel. From calving glaciers viewed from a ship’s deck to scenic train rides, helicopter landings on glaciers, gold panning, wildlife encounters, and hikes through untamed wilderness, we soaked up every minute. It wasn’t our typical RV journey, but it was every bit the kind of soul-filling adventure that reminds us why we love a lifestyle of travel and adventure in the first place.

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In 2020, we were about a week away from crossing the Canadian Border on our way to Alaska in our motorhome. I’m sure you can guess where this is going already. Yup, we got stuck by Covid. With that, we put our trip on hold. Now, in Texas, being a 10,000-mile round trip from Alaska, we figured that for just the price of gas, we could go on an amazing bucket-list worthy cruisetour to see the Yukon and Alaska.

This post shares our full trip experience, from Vancouver to Anchorage, and back, with all the magic in between.

Starting in Vancouver

After a week of exploring Vancouver and Victoria, we returned to Vancouver to begin our land and sea journey. Our first night was spent at the Vancouver Airport Fairfield Inn. At check-in, a friendly Holland America welcome team gave us our first-day instructions.

We decided to upgrade to the Fairfield Gold Suite for $150 Canadian — and wow, was it worth it! The suite was on the top floor overlooking the runway, with access to a private lounge stocked with drinks, appetizers, and desserts. A spotting scope in the room gave us close-up views of planes taking off, and the oversized jacuzzi tub and plush robes added a nice touch of luxury. The bed and pillows were cozy, though the towels could have been fluffier.

The next day we enjoyed breakfast in the lounge and had a relaxing checkout at noon, just in time for our 2:15 p.m. Air North flight to Whitehorse, Yukon.

Welcome to the Yukon

Our 2.5-hour flight on a nearly full 737 brought us into Whitehorse, where we were greeted by our land tour guide, Taylor. She handed out luggage tags and prepped us for the journey ahead. We tagged our main suitcase for delivery and took a short bus ride to the Sternwheeler Hotel.

The Sternwheeler wasn’t fancy — hard beds and basic amenities — but clean. After settling in, we explored the town, wandered along the Yukon River Trail, checked out a food truck festival, and saw the historic Sternwheeler Klondike undergoing restoration.

Miles Canyon, Emerald Lake, and a Bear Hug

The next morning, we left Whitehorse early, with stops at some of the Yukon’s most scenic spots. Miles Canyon offered dramatic blue water and basalt cliffs. At Emerald Lake, the green color was unreal — locals say it’s where the Northern Lights rest for summer.

On the way to Carcross, we had an unforgettable wildlife sighting: a brown-colored black bear rubbing against a telephone pole like it was his favorite back-scratcher. In Carcross, we had a short stop before heading to Wild Adventure Yukon for lunch and puppy cuddles. We also visited the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and Wildlife Museums.

Afterward, we returned to Whitehorse for a quick flight to Dawson City.

Gold Rush Days in Dawson

We checked into the Westmark Inn in Dawson City, where the rooms were comfortable, and the town felt straight out of a gold rush movie. We had dinner at Gold Pan Pizza and caught the Can-Can show at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s.

Unexpectedly, I even ran into my friend Dave, who is the Executive Chef at Westmark. Small world!

The next day, we explored the shops, took in the quirky vibe, and capped it all off with the infamous Sourtoe Cocktail at the Sourdough Saloon.

The Sour Toe Shot is a bizarre and legendary tradition in Dawson City, Yukon, Canada. It consists of a shot of whiskey—usually Yukon Jack—served with a real, mummified human toe floating in the glass. To officially join the “Sourtoe Cocktail Club,” you must let the toe touch your lips as you drink. The ritual began in 1973 and has since attracted over a hundred thousand adventurous (and slightly twisted) drinkers from around the world, including us. The club’s famous motto? “You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow—but your lips must touch that gnarly toe.”

The ritual is overseen by the “Toe Captain,” who manages the toe and ensures you pledge the Sourtoe oath before the toe ever makes contact. I was #114,220 to take the shot, and Lisa was #114,221. Naturally, we got certificates.

Following our shots, we ended the night with a second, even better Can-Can show at Diamond Tooth Gerties.

Heading to Alaska

We had a super early start for our charter flight from Dawson to Fairbanks, Alaska. Despite a short delay, we arrived just an hour later (gaining an hour thanks to the time change). Customs was a breeze, and we were off to the Westmark Fairbanks for a two-night stay.

Our 8th-floor room was cozy and well-appointed. We explored Fairbanks on foot, starting at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center, where Lisa proudly got her All 50 States certificate photo (Alaska was her final state!). On the way back, we discovered the Ice Museum — fun and a bit kitschy, with ice sculptures and even a bobsled slide.

Fairbanks Tours: Gold Dredging & River Cruising

The next day was packed. First up was a tour of Gold Dredge 8 ( included with our cruisetour), where we learned about the Alaska Pipeline and panned for gold. Lisa found $6 worth and I got $9 — not too shabby! She even had a pin made from our combined stash.

After a hearty lunch, we headed to Discovery III for a riverboat tour on the Chena River (also included in our cruisetour). Highlights included a floatplane demonstration, a dog sledding presentation, and a visit to a replica of an indigenous village. Educational, scenic, and a lot of fun.

On To Denali National Park

On Day 6, we boarded a Holland America coach for the drive to the McKinley Chalet Resort near Denali, where we would spend a three-night stay. Along the way, we stopped in Nenana for a quick break and some ice cream. After checking into our room, we grabbed drinks with our guide and dinner at Prospectors Pizza — hands down one of our favorite meals of the trip.

The following day, we took the Tundra Wilderness Tour (included with our cruisetour)— a 43-mile ride deep into Denali National Park. It was cloudy, so no Mt. Denali views, but we spotted moose and caribou and enjoyed the dramatic landscapes.

Our last full day in Denali started with breakfast at Karsten’s, then a beautiful hike on the Horseshoe Lake Trail. We had not one, but two close encounters with a mother moose and her twin calves — absolutely magical.

That night we returned to Prospectors for more pizza and had a nightcap at Karsten’s.

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see Denali during our stay in the area.

Scenic Train Ride to Anchorage

We boarded the McKinley Explorer for an 8-hour journey to Anchorage aboard luxurious double-decker dome cars. With overcast weather in Denali, we hadn’t seen the mountain — but as we rode south, the skies cleared and we became proud members of the “30% Club,” catching multiple sightings of Mt. Denali. The views were breathtaking.

Anchorage & Day Trip to Seward

Anchorage was our least favorite hotel stop. The Westmark Anchorage felt dated, had no guest laundry, and required a call just to restock the toiletries that were left empty. (This was our only complaint on the whole trip.)

With a free day to spend on our own, we rented a car and made the scenic drive — just over two hours — from Anchorage down to Seward, Alaska, for a six-hour boat tour of Kenai Fjords National Park. This was one of the most wildlife-packed excursions of the entire trip. We saw a mountain goat with her kid, killer whales (including a calf), humpback whales, Dall’s porpoises, sea otters, harbor seals, and Steller sea lions, many with pups. Birdwatchers would’ve been in heaven — we spotted horned and tufted puffins, common murres, cormorants, black-legged kittiwakes, and even a bald eagle tearing feathers out of a kittiwake for dinner. It was wild in the best way.

One of the highlights was a stop at Holgate Glacier, where the crew fished chunks of floating glacier ice from the water with a net and made fresh Glacier Margaritas onboard — a unique Alaskan experience we won’t forget. Lisa said, “Taking wildlife photos on a rocking boat isn’t easy. Some shots didn’t turn out quite up to our usual standards, but the memories? Those are crystal clear.”

After the tour, we drove back to Anchorage and had dinner at Humpies Bar — their fish and chips are fantastic.

Cruise Train to Whittier

After a relaxing morning in Anchorage, we said goodbye to our land tour guide, Taylor, and boarded the Holland America Cruise Train to Whittier — and what a ride it was. The journey took us through the stunning landscapes of southcentral Alaska, with panoramic views of glaciers, rivers, and towering mountains. The train was spacious and comfortable, with large picture windows perfect for soaking in the scenery.

We passed through long, dark tunnels (including the famous Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel), crossed winding creeks, and even caught glimpses of wildlife along the way. It was a peaceful, scenic transition from land to sea, and by the time we pulled into the tiny port town of Whittier, we were excited and ready to start the cruise portion of our adventure aboard the MS Noordam.

Boarding the MS Noordam in Whittier

Arriving in Whittier, we were greeted by a cool sea breeze and a view of the MS Noordam docked and ready to sail. The boarding process was smooth and well-organized — Holland America really knows how to handle transitions like pros. After checking in and dropping off our bags, we stepped onboard and were immediately impressed by the warm, welcoming feel of the ship.

The elegant interior, friendly staff, and that first view from the deck set the tone for the days ahead. We found our stateroom, took a moment to settle in, and then headed topside to watch the ship pull away from port. There’s something magical about those first moments at sea — the hum of the engines, the mountains sliding by in the distance, and the sense that your adventure has officially begun.

Around the Ship

Cruising to Hubbard Glacier

One of the most awe-inspiring moments of our trip came during our cruise aboard the MS Noordam when we reached the mighty Hubbard Glacier — North America’s largest tidewater glacier. Sailing into Disenchantment Bay, we were immediately struck by how massive and powerful the glacier was. Even from miles away, you could hear the deep cracks and thunderous roars of ice calving into the sea.

We bundled up on the open decks with our cameras and hot drinks, taking it all in. Towering walls of blue-white ice stretched out across the horizon, with jagged spires and deep crevasses that looked like something from another planet. The captain did a phenomenal job rotating the ship so everyone had a front-row view. We even spotted seals lounging on floating icebergs.

It’s hard to describe the scale of Hubbard Glacier until you’re staring it down in person. It felt wild, raw, and humbling — one of those “this is why we travel” moments. For us, it was a highlight of the cruise and a perfect place to reflect on the overland portion of our journey through the Yukon and Alaska.

A Day in Glacier Bay National Park

Cruising through Glacier Bay National Park was another jaw-dropping highlight of our voyage aboard the MS Noordam. The ship slowed as we entered the park, and the air grew noticeably crisper. Rangers from the National Park Service boarded the ship to give commentary and share fascinating insight about the area’s geology, wildlife, and the retreat of the glaciers over time. We grabbed a warm drink and layered up, then staked out a spot on the upper deck for panoramic views.

As we cruised past dramatic cliffs and thick forested slopes, massive glaciers came into view — most memorably the Margerie Glacier, with its brilliant blue hue and thunderous calving sounds echoing across the water. Sea otters floated by on their backs, and the occasional harbor seal popped its head above the surface.

We spent hours just soaking it all in — the silence, the stillness, the sheer magnitude of the landscape. There’s something about Glacier Bay that makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a different world — a frozen wilderness that’s still wild, still changing, and still completely unforgettable.

Exploring Skagway and Riding the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway

Our stop in Skagway felt like stepping straight into a time capsule from the Gold Rush era. Surrounded by towering mountains and filled with colorful, wooden buildings, this little town has done an incredible job preserving its wild frontier charm. After docking, we had some time to walk around the historic downtown area — the boardwalks creaked underfoot, and you could almost hear the echoes of hopeful prospectors chasing fortune through these streets over a century ago.

The highlight of our visit, though, was the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway — a scenic train journey that climbs nearly 3,000 feet from Skagway to the summit of White Pass. Booked through the cruise line. We boarded vintage railcars with huge windows that gave us panoramic views of waterfalls, glaciers, deep valleys, and sky-high trestle bridges. The narration along the way added context to what we were seeing, from the harrowing stories of stampeders to the mind-blowing engineering feats that built the railroad. I just wish we would have sat closer to the middle so we could have seen the engines entering the tunnels.

As the train climbed higher into the alpine tundra, we were treated to stunning vistas that had us constantly reaching for our cameras. Sharp drop-offs, narrow ledges, and swirling mountain mists made for an unforgettable ride. At the summit, the train paused briefly before circling back down the line, giving us new views from the other side. It was one of the most scenic excursions of our entire trip and an absolute must-do if you’re ever in Skagway.

Back in town, we took more time to explore, visit local shops, and grab a bite. Skagway may be small, but it’s packed with character (and tourists from the three ships in port). It served as the perfect first port call of the cruise portion of our journey.

Helicopter & Dogsledding on Herbert Glacier

One of the most unforgettable experiences of our entire trip took place in Juneau, where we took a helicopter ride to Herbert Glacier for a real Alaskan dogsledding adventure. From the moment the rotors started spinning, we knew we were in for something special. The flight alone was breathtaking — soaring over snow-capped peaks, deep crevasses, and endless fields of untouched white. Landing on the glacier felt like touching down on another planet.

Waiting for us on the ice was a full dog camp, complete with excited huskies eager to run. We got a brief orientation, then climbed onto the sled for a ride we’ll never forget. The dogs took off with enthusiasm, and the crisp glacier air, combined with the sound of paws on snow and the sheer beauty all around us, created a magical, almost surreal experience. We even got a chance to meet the dogs, learn about their training, and pose for photos with our sled team. It was one of those bucket list moments — the kind that sticks with you long after the snow has melted.

Flying Over Misty Fjords & Exploring Ketchikan

Our day in Ketchikan started with a once-in-a-lifetime experience — a floatplane tour over Misty Fjords National Monument with Island Wings. We took off right from the harbor, our small plane skimming across the water, passing our cruise ship, before lifting off into the sky. The views were unbelievable. Towering granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls, deep U-shaped valleys, and pristine alpine lakes filled the landscape below us. True to its name, the Misty Fjords were draped in a light fog that added a dreamlike quality to the scenery. Our pilot narrated the journey, pointing out wildlife and geological features as we flew through narrow passes and over remote wilderness.

About halfway through the flight, we landed on one of the fjord’s glassy lakes — a surreal, peaceful moment in the heart of the Alaskan backcountry. Stepping out onto the plane’s floats, we took in the silence and sheer grandeur of the place. It’s hard to put into words just how majestic it felt. The lake lying between mountains, our pilot had to circle the plane around the lake as we gained altitude to get over the steep cliffs. That was pretty cool!

Back in town, we spent the rest of the afternoon strolling through Ketchikan’s colorful streets and boardwalks. We visited the famous Creek Street, once the red-light district and now home to charming shops perched on stilts above the water. We popped into a few local galleries, browsed for souvenirs, and grabbed a bite to eat while watching the floatplanes buzz overhead. Ketchikan has such a unique blend of small-town charm and frontier history — it was the perfect blend of adrenaline and relaxation all in one day.

Cruising the Inside Passage

Sailing through the Inside Passage was one of the most serene and scenic parts of our journey. From the comfort of our veranda stateroom, we spent hours watching the world drift by — dense forests lining the shores, snow-capped mountains rising in the distance, and the occasional seal or sea otter floating in the wake.

The early mornings were especially magical, with soft light reflecting off the water and wisps of fog clinging to the treetops. We sat bundled in blankets, listening to the rhythmic hum of the ship and soaking in the views. Cruising the Inside Passage felt like a moving postcard, and having a front-row seat from our private balcony made it that much more special.

Back to Vancouver & Back to Reality

After nearly three weeks of incredible landscapes, unforgettable excursions, and once-in-a-lifetime moments, we returned to Vancouver, marking the end of our Holland America Denali & Yukon adventure. Stepping off the ship felt a little bittersweet — part of us was ready for a good night’s sleep in our own bed, but another part didn’t want the journey to end. It’s hard to go from watching glaciers calve and moose wander through the wilderness to standing in a busy port terminal. Still, we were filled with gratitude for the experiences, the people we met, the things we saw, and the stories we now get to tell. As full-time travelers, we’re always looking forward to the next adventure, but this one will be tough to top.

Returning to a happy pup that missed us a lot!

A Few Tips & Recommendations for Future Travelers

Go with the flow
Weather, wildlife sightings, and schedules can all change. Some days you’ll see a bear, moose, or Denali in full view — other days, not so much. Embrace the unpredictability, and remember: the best moments often happen when you least expect them.

Start with the land portion
Starting with the land portion and ending with the cruise makes for a smoother, more relaxing experience. The land tour is full of early mornings and fast-paced travel days, so wrapping things up with the cruise lets you slow down, breathe, and reflect on everything you’ve seen.

Pack layers — and more layers
Weather in Alaska and the Yukon can change by the hour. We experienced everything from warm sunshine to chilly drizzle, sometimes all in the same day. Bring base layers, a waterproof jacket, a warm hat, gloves, and good walking shoes or hiking boots. Don’t forget a small daypack for excursions and plenty of sunscreen (even on cloudy days, UV rays bounce off the glaciers!).

Book key excursions early
Some of the most popular excursions — like dogsledding on a glacier, the White Pass & Yukon train ride, and Misty Fjords floatplane tours — can sell out quickly. If you know there’s something you really want to do, book it ahead of time to avoid disappointment. We did a mixture of booking through the cruise line and booking ourselves on Viator.

Be prepared for limited Wi-Fi and cell service
Once you get into the interior, especially in places like Dawson City, Denali, and even parts of Fairbanks, the internet can be spotty or slow. It’s a good idea to download maps, apps, entertainment, or books ahead of time — or better yet, lean into the disconnected experience and enjoy the break.

Keep a small overnight bag handy
On travel days, your main luggage is often transported separately and delivered later to your hotel room. We kept a small carry-on with toiletries, medications, a change of clothes, and any essentials we might need during the day.

Have a good camera and know how to use it
With landscapes this stunning and wildlife around every corner, you’ll want to capture it. Even a smartphone can do the job if you’re comfortable with it, but if you’ve got a DSLR or mirrorless camera, bring it along — and practice shooting in challenging light or from a moving vehicle or boat.

Final Thoughts

This trip was everything we hoped for and more. The perfect combination of rugged adventure, natural beauty, wildlife encounters, and history — all wrapped in the comfort and coordination of a Holland America CruiseTour. Every day brought something new, and we left with memories (and photos) we’ll treasure for a lifetime.

If an Alaska & Yukon CruiseTour is on your bucket list, we can’t recommend this trip enough. And if you have any questions or want packing tips or excursion advice, drop us a comment — we’d love to help you plan your journey.

When we were planning this trip, several people recommended that we book the land portion first and end with the cruise — and we’re so glad we took that advice. The land tour through the Yukon and Alaska is absolutely incredible, but it’s also more fast-paced. There are early mornings, long travel days, and lots of sightseeing packed into each stop. By the time we boarded the ship in Whittier, we were ready to relax. The cruise portion gave us a chance to slow down, unpack for a week, enjoy great meals, and watch the scenery roll by from our veranda. It was the perfect way to wind down after the rugged adventure of the interior — and we’d recommend that order to anyone considering an Alaska & Yukon CruiseTour.

What interesting places can you recommend? We’re always looking for neat out-of-the-way experiences to add to our list of places to visit. Thank you for reading our article. If you have any comments or questions we’d love to hear from you below.

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